Mark Nicholls takes a ski break to Austria’s picturesque destination that offers a priceless combination of water, snow and ice.

The story of Zell am See-Kaprun centres on water: from the chilly winter depths of the lake and the snowy slopes of the mountainside up to the deep-frozen iciness of a glacier.

The waterfront is idyllic with its imposing hotels and jetties with lanes leading up into a very traditional Austrian town set on a busy rail route. Beyond, are bars and restaurants, small cafes and shops in a town that has vibrancy to it.

Never far away are the lift systems and access to the soaring mountains beyond.

Zell am See is arguably one of Austria’s most picturesque and diverse ski resorts and in winter it is that blend of water, snow and ice that makes it such a popular resort for families and more adventurous skiers alike.

Imposing peaks

Several lift systems take you into the mountains, where that vibrant ambience is reflected on the slopes too, with the cityXpress, transXpress and Schmittenhohebahn whisking skiers up to 2000m to enjoy 77km of runs with blues, reds and blacks, including the ominously-named run 13.

My first day was spent on the runs above Zell am See, enjoying the cruising blues and reds that offered various routes down, always with the option of taking a lift up again or hopping on the ski bus back to Zell am See.

With panoramic views and the feel of a family resort and five long downhill runs, this is a busy area popular with beginners but there is plenty of space higher up and numerous mountain restaurants for lunch or a coffee stop, such as the Glockneralm where you can savour huge pizzas or traditional Austrian food too.

Glacier skiing

From the central point in Zell am See, buses regularly run to other lifts, or take skiers along the lakeside to Kaprun, opening up a whole new ski panorama and access to the Kitzsteinhorn glacier.

PHOTO: Zell am See-Kaprun Tourismus

The Panoramabahn or Gletscherjet1 lead to Gletscherjet 2, 3, and 4 and the higher points at 3000+ metres and a thrilling selection of runs within what is the Nationalpark Hohe Tauern with the soaring peaks of Kitzstein (3203m) and Grossglockner (3798m) in the distance.

During my visit to the SalzburgerLand resort in mid-February 2024, the slopes were busy and conditions and visibility variable but when the weather clears, there are amazing views over the Austrian Alps from the Top of Salzburg panorama platform.

There are always plenty of options across the two main ski areas, which are included in the Alpin Card ski pass (this season €76 a day or €405 for six days peak season), which also covers the nearby Skicircus region of Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn and 408km of piste with 121 lifts.

Tempting dishes

In a resort that is just over an hour away from Salzburg airport, there’s also opportunities for ski touring, cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing, plus hiking trails and spa and wellness in many hotels, along with the expansive Tauern Spa which has 12 pools and 10 saunas.

Regular visitors to SalzburgerLand will be more than aware of its growing reputation for culinary diversity, but also use of locally-sourced ingredients, with menus on restaurants on the mountains and in resorts offering tempting dishes that blend modern and traditional approaches.

PHOTO: Zell am See-Kaprun Tourismus

There’s plenty of places to stop on the mountain, such as Gletscheremule, where the pork ribs and the clear soup and dumplings are particularly tasty.

Highly-recommended is the Kraftwerk Restaurant and Winebar, set in the atmospheric former power house in Zell am See. One of the attractions is a mystery menu which invites diners to travel to the “culinary corners of the Salzburg region” without knowing what they’re ordering.

Served in four (€65), five (€79), or six (€87) courses over a leisurely two hours, there were also pre-dishes from the chef before the actual first course of chicory, sheep’s cheese and hazelnuts arrived. A baked egg with celery straw and caviar was followed by a rare beef fillet with dumpling, carrot cream and violet potato chips. Dessert was baked apple slices and ice cream. Kraftwerk also has a great wine list.

I stayed at the family-owned Hotel Tirolerhof not far from the cityXpress lift with 89 rooms, a pool, spa and excellent restaurant, which has an ethos of supporting local growers and farmers. Owner Christian Posch tells me: “We try to present traditional Austrian hospitality, but especially in the restaurant, sourcing our ingredients as locally as possible.”

There’s so much diversity in Zell Am See-Kaprun, for foodies and skiers alike. And the enduring appeal is that the priceless combination of water, snow and ice is never far away.

TRAVEL FACTS

Accommodation: Mark Nicholls stayed at the four-star Hotel Tirolerhof. For more information and rates, visit: tirolerhof.co.at/en

Lift pass: Six-day Alpin Card ski pass is €405 in peak season. A good place to hire skis and boots is at Brundl at the foot of the cityXpress – it’s busy, highly-efficient with helpful staff and offers the convenience of storing your skis overnight.

Dining: kraftwerk-restaurant.at

For more information, visit zellamsee-kaprun.com and austria.info/en

Categories: Austria, Resort News & Reports

Tags: Austria, Salzburgerland, Zell am See