A rapid rise to the top

By Skier & Snowboarder on 24th January 2022

With travel restrictions to France easing for UK-based skiers and snowboarders, MARK NICHOLLS reports on what awaits you in Les Menuires this season

The view from La Masse is inspirational. I had travelled up from Les Menuires which nestles more than 1,000m in the valley below.

The panorama is simply breath-taking, and even better news this season is the speed and ease of access to this wondrous viewpoint, plus the ski and snowboard options when you arrive.

A new 10-seater cable car has replaced two older lifts and provides the rapid access to the high point of La Masse.

It arrives directly at the summit of La Masse at an altitude of 2,804m within eight minutes.

Previously, the two lifts took 25 minutes to get to the top. The new lift adds an extra dimension to skiing and snowboarding in Les Menuires.

Once at the top, there are blue, red and black runs down, but before setting off, enjoy the 360-degree views from the rooftop of the arrival station, or take a break at the ‘Le 2800’ restaurant.

The new addition epitomises the appeal of ‘Friendly Les Menuires’, as it brands itself – accessible skiing and snowboarding for all levels even from the highest points.

Festive pilgrimage

Pre-Christmas COVID travel restrictions saw many Brits deprived of their annual festive pilgrimage to this region.

I was among the lucky few to ski there at the start of the season, arriving literally hours before a rule change and was fortunate to take advantage of the fine weather and uncrowded pistes, which were in great shape after heavy early snowfalls.

And the altitude of Les Menuires in the 3vallees means much of those conditions now still await UK-based skiers looking to make up for lost time in the mountains of south-eastern France.

The 110km of piste embrace terrain suitable for beginners and intermediates through to advanced and expert skiers who may want to tackle a tricky black run or venture off-piste.

Longest ski run

While the runs from La Masse into the resort at 1850m above sea level are long, even longer is the piste down to the traditional village of Saint-Martin-de-Belleville nearby at 1450m. As the longest continual ski run in the resort, the descent from 2704m at ‘3 Marches’ is over 1250m.

Both resorts are part of the huge Les3Vallees ski arena which includes Courchevel, Meribel and Val Thorens, with access to more than 600km of piste, meaning you’re never short of a new run to experience.

And the altitude and well-tended pistes deliver a long season that can run from early December until late April.

Purpose-built with a 1960s architectural aura, Les Menuires features the landmark ‘Brelin’ apartment block in the La Croisette district, contrasted by the contemporary bell tower and newer properties.

The resort hosted the men’s slalom in the 1992 Winter Olympics and it is now a base for brother and sister Guillaume and Margaux Herpin (pictured), who were World Junior Snowboard Cross Vice-Champions last winter in Russia. They learned to snowboard in Les Menuires and retain strong connections to the area.

Take the train

To get to Les Menuires, I travelled to Moutiers by train from London St Pancras International. Eurostar, in association with Travelski, runs a Friday night departure/Saturday return service to the French ski resorts, though for me, departing on a Thursday, meant catching the 9.01am departure to Lille, with further changes in Lyon and Chambery.

If you can make the Friday departure and avoid changes, taking the train is an eco-friendly and relaxed journey without airport queues and two-hour transfers (generally from Geneva or Lyon).

I checked into my accommodation at rustic Ho36, with a friendly bar and restaurant, and it is well-placed for exploring the slopes of Les Menuires.

Ski instructor Nicolas Fressard, with more than 30 years of teaching skiers in the resort, was my guide.

“What is most special about Les Menuires, is the huge ski area,” he tells me. “Many of the slopes are red and blue, which is fine for many people, but if you want something more difficult there are black runs, with moguls, there are different snow conditions and off-piste skiing as well.”

Slopes running down two different sides of the mountain, allows sunshine skiing all day long.

Bars and restaurants

After skiing, there’s still plenty to do with spas and sports centres, great bars and restaurants – my recommendations would be the L’Alpen steak house in Les Bruyeres and Au Village in La Croisette, where I ordered a raclette. For lunch on the slopes try Le Roc Seven and Le Corbeleys.

There are also winter walks, snow-shoeing, ski touring, cross country skiing, or you can take the snowy path for a 10-minute stroll from the La Croisette centre of Les Menuires to Les Bruyeres to whizz down the new luges sur rails, an all-year-round toboggan run.

Challenges with travel remain, but as restrictions ease, there’s still plenty of skiing on offer in Les Menuires this season.

TRAVEL FACTS

Travel: Mark Nicholls took the Eurostar to Lille and onward to Moutier. For direct Travelski Express departures visit: https://www.uk.travelski.com/travelski-express