Mark Nicholls enjoys a sparkling weekend of early season skiing and World Cup slalom racing in Gurgl, Austria.
There’s already a buzz in Gurgl – the ski season is barely days old and the slopes are deep with snow.
That feelgood start to the winter season for the Austrian resort has been further buoyed by an exciting round of Audi FIS Alpine Ski World Cup racing with the men’s and women’s slalom events taking place over the weekend of 23-24 November.
Slalom slope finish line
Record-breaker Mikeala Shiffrin wowed the crowds with a stunning victory – her 99th – while Clement Noel left the rest in his wake in the men’s event on the Kirchenkar slope in Hochgurgl. There were big cheers for Austrian racers too, but a special reception was reserved for British ace Dave Ryding, who is the “local hero” having made the resort (which sponsors him) his alpine home.
After finishing a credible seventh to the delight of the 9,000 spectators, he quipped: “I seem to be everybody’s second favourite skier and I’m happy with that!”
Gurgl’s 112km of slopes and 25 mountain lifts opened on 14 November, some 10 days ahead of the slalom events and with plenty of snow falling, including on the eve of the races, there was an air of optimism.
Returning stars
Delighted with the Gurgl result, after finishing 16th in Finland on the season opener the previous week, Ryding is pragmatic about his longevity, having just turned 38.
Dave Ryding
Speaking to Skier & Snowboarder after the race, he said he was taking each race as it comes but acknowledges he’s in good company age-wise, pointing to Austrian Marcel Hirscher coming out of retirement at 35 (to now compete for The Netherlands) and Lindsey Vonn returning to the slopes at 41.
As Britain’s most successful skier, having won a slalom world cup race at Kitzbuhel in January 2022 (and the only Briton to do so), he was not being drawn on the 2026 Winter Olympics in Milano-Cortina, Italy.
“I just take it race by race,” he tells me. “I cannot think longer term, I am too old for that, but I will decide what to do at the end of the year.”
But he was equally keen to point to the form of fellow Brits Laurie Taylor who was 23rd overall in Gurgl and Billy Major.
Bright future for British skiing
While Shiffrin and Clement dominated, Ryding was delighted with his own performance.
“We had a really strong day, a slight mistake on the second run, which was a bit painful, but I cannot complain,” he said, “and to be in this position already with new equipment after two races is way beyond where I thought I might be.”
Live race times on the finish line scoreboard
There’s no denying the slalom brings an intensely exciting atmosphere to the slopes. Live footage, replays and instant split times keep the crowds fully informed as the skiers race down to the accompaniment of anything from rousing classical music to heavy metal.
With Taylor and Major pushing him in training and “getting faster and faster”, he added: “The future is bright; the next 20 years is going to be good for British skiing.”
Also seen enjoying the action in Gurgl was the legendary Konrad Bartelski, now 70, who finished second in Val Gardena, Italy, in December 1981.
Guaranteed snow
Gurgl is also a lovely resort to ski and one Ryding has no hesitation in championing: “The best thing about Gurgl is that you are guaranteed snow.”
Hochgurgl slope. PHOTO: Otztal Tourism
What the two main ski areas of Hochgurgl and Obergurgl in the Ötztal valley also have is that critical ingredient for a long season; they sit at altitude with the snow-sure slopes at 1800-3030m.
The British ace is always happy to be out on the piste and mingle with leisure skiers and fans and pose for selfies, or head up to the Hohe Mut Alm, his favourite view in the Alps, for a quick espresso.
“Skiing is nothing without the fans so it is important to give a little back when you can. In Gurgl, everyone is a fan because it is my second home in the Alps and I get such a warm welcome. I love to be in the village in the winter.”
He was also full of praise for the race organisers, the course preparation and the resort’s enthusiasm to stage world cup races.
Motorcycle heaven
A focus of the event was the famous Mountain Motorcycle Museum (TOP Mountain Motorcycle Museum in Hochgurgl, Tirol), just down from the slalom finish line and hosting the media centre.
Mikeala Shiffrin with the race trophy in the Mountain Motorcycle Museum
Arguably the world’s finest motorcycle museum, it suffered a devastating fire in January 2021 with 362 vintage and classic motorcycles going up in flames. Incredibly, it was rebuilt within 10 months, with hundreds of motorcycles donated to accompany the stellar collection of twin brothers Alban and Attila Schreiber who own the museum. It now has some 550 machines on display, including historic models from the 19th century, classic racing machines and rare motorbikes, many worth more than 100,000 euros and some valued at more than 1m euros.
“As a museum, it probably holds the most value of motorcycles anywhere,” said Mark Upham, one of the curators. “What is special about it is that while a lot of museums have specialist or English motorcycles for example, here the collection is eclectic; we want to have bikes that appeal to a lot of different people.”
Visitors can expect to see BMW and Ducati machines, an American roper from 1867 and the Brough Superior, with the famous Lawrence of Arabia connection.
Ski-in-ski-out
During my weekend in Gurgl, I stayed at the Top Hotel Hochgurgl with ski-in-ski-out access to the slopes and enjoyed a few runs before heading off to watch the slalom events. Set at 2150m with direct lift access, it has 71 rooms, including 41 suites, a fabulous spa with sauna and steam rooms, a large indoor pool, an outdoor pool, plus gym and therapy area.
Top Hotel Hochgurgl. PHOTO: Top Hotel © Konstantin Volkmar
In traditional Austrian style, there are lovely wood-panelled restaurants, spacious rooms, and the Scheiber Sports ski rental is conveniently located below the hotel.
Hochgurgl is set higher up and perfect for slope access, while Obergurgl has a more traditional village feel.
There is also plenty of variety on the slopes with around 60km of blues, 33km reds, 15km of black runs and 4km of ski routes.
There’s an array of restaurants and mountain huts offering fabulous cuisines and several have spectacular views, such as from the Top Mountain Star at Wurmkogel. There are also toboggan runs and night skiing.
Gurgl is known as the Diamond of the Alps, and it certainly knows how to deliver a sparkling weekend of skiing and racing.
TRAVEL FACTS
Hotel Hochgurgl
Accommodation/flight: Mark Nicholls stayed at the Top Hotel, Hochgurgl, and flew into Innsbruck airport from London Gatwick with a 90-minute transfer to Gurgl.
Ski pass: Peak season adult one-day ski pass is 73 euros, six days is 429.50 euros. The season runs from mid-November to late April.
For more information: Visit gurgl.com
Categories: Austria, News, Racing, Resort News & Reports
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