Mark Nicholls enjoys a final flurry of spring skiing in Ischgl.
Looking for a final blast of the season on the slopes? One of the best places to go in April for some Spring skiing is the Austrian Tyrol and the snow-sure resort of Ischgl.
It’s got altitude (as well as attitude), heaps of snow, 239km of groomed piste, spas, and you may even be here to catch a glittering end-of-season concert on the mountains too. And in addition, you’ll never be hungry as the resort has some of the best chefs and restaurants in the Alps.
PHOTO: The ski area in Ischgl (Paznaun – Ischgl Tourist Board)
Spring skiing
It was mid-April last year when I slipped away to Ischgl, high in the Silvretta Mountains, in search of late snow and I certainly wasn’t disappointed.
Within hours of settling in to my hotel – the modern Zalwonder discreetly burrowed into a slope opposite the main village – snow was falling heavily and setting up a grand finale for the season.
With around 80% of Ischgl’s ski terrain at 2000m+, that meant fabulous powder conditions high up the mountain.
It also means the resort in the Paznaun Valley – which also encompasses Kappel, Galtür and See – enjoys a long season that opens late November and continues until 1 May.
Fresh powder
From the heart of the village at around 1400m, the Silvrettabahn gondola is route one up to Idalp at 2320m above sea level and a pivotal interchange with a second wave of lifts heading in an array of different directions across the Silvretta ski area.
From Ischgl, just inside the Austrian border with Switzerland, wide reds and blues sweep down to from Alptrider Sattel at 2488m down the so-called ‘duty-free run’ to Samnaun.
The Austrians like to talk about smuggling and historic routes across the mountains where for centuries goods were peddled between the two nations. Today, they highlight the opportunities for duty free shopping.
But there’s a time to shop and a time to ski and with the air still full of snow and fresh powder, there was only one way that was going.
PHOTO: The snowpark in Ischgl (Paznaun – Ischgl Tourist Board)
Great conditions
Given the lateness of the season, and midweek, the slopes were uncrowded despite the great conditions – some 4,000 skiers on slopes that can accommodate 20,000, according to tourist office figures from that day.
Having spent a morning skiing in the fresh snow, up as high as 2872m at Greitspitze and taking in a selection of black runs, we returned to Idalp for lunch at the Restaurant Idalp, before taking advantage of the empty slopes and great conditions into the afternoon.
Idalp is also the location for the renowned concerts that Ischgl stages, which saw Ellie Goulding open the current season and Black-Eyed Peas close it last April. This year’s Top of the Mountain Spring Concert on 20 April is being headlined by Shaggy.
Red lines
Day two saw even better conditions as we ate up the kilometres of piste, with a further 25cm of snow having fallen.
The ski region of Ischgl is large and rewarding, particularly for more experienced skiers, with red lines dominating the piste map but there are blues and blacks too and off-piste opportunities, a snow park, as well as runs all the way back down to the village.
Meanwhile the nearby ski areas of Galtur, Kappl and See offer a gentler perspective and are known as family-ski destinations. Paznaun also has cross-country skiing, snow shoeing and winter hiking trails.
Culinary destination
PHOTO: Oyster Mushrooms three ways with Caviar by Gunther Doberl
Food, inevitably, is always a joy of any stay in Ischgl – winter or summer – and the region has a strong reputation for culinary excellence, whether that is with traditional Tyrolean food or modern innovations from the resorts high-profile chefs.
These may include a veal and tuna tartare with a ring of avocado crème; oyster mushrooms in caviar in three styles; lobster with carrot in an “alpine curry” sauce using herbs from the region; or smoked eel pasta.
But you will always find Wiener Schnitzel, Filetspitzen stroganoff or Tiroler grostl (roast potatoes, pork and eggs) too, as well as bowls of goulash soup.
A pioneering figure has been Martin Sieberer from the Paznaunerstube at the five-star Trofana Royal hotel in Ischgl, who observes that “guests expect good food when they come to Ischgl”. And they usually get it.
A good way to savour the food offer is via the resort’s “Dine.Around” concept; effectively a gourmet tour of Ischgl’s top restaurants, including Hotel Fliana, the Schlossherrnstube at the Schlosshotel and the Paznaunerstube.
PHOTO: Top of the mountain concert in Ischgl (Paznaun – Ischgl Tourist Board)
Relax if you can
Ischgl is similarly renowned for apres-ski but more recently has toned down the party resort reputation.
The ‘relax, if you can’ mantra remains as does the popularity of apres hotspots such as the Kuhstall, Trofana Alm and Nikis Stadl but steps are being taken to curb apres-ski excesses including a ban on wearing ski boots after 8pm (supposedly to encourage revellers to take a mid-evening break from non-stop drinking and return to their hotels to change).
While end-of-the-season skiing is welcome, Ischgl already has an eye on the summer expanding it summer season with new hiking, mountain biking and climbing routes.
But if snow’s your thing don’t worry, the next winter season is only ever a few short months away!
PHOTO: Wintry chairlift ride in April above Ischgl
TRAVEL FACTS
Accommodation: Mark Nicholls stayed at the 36-room Hotel Zalwonder with a bar, restaurant and comfortable rooms with super views over Ischgl. There is also a spa, sauna and outdoor sky pool and the Silvrettabahn is a short walk away. Visit zalwonder.com
Flights: London Gatwick to Innsbruck with Easyjet and a 90-minute transfer to Ischgl.
Ski pass: A six-day Silvretta Ski Pass is €387
Ischgl’s culinary delights: ischgl.com/en/Enjoy/Culinary-delights
For more information: Visit ischgl.com
Categories: Austria, News, Resort News & Reports
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